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Right turbo for 5.3 ls
Right turbo for 5.3 ls









right turbo for 5.3 ls

Ported or aftermarket heads are not needed until you hit the 900+whp ranges.

right turbo for 5.3 ls

You don't even need to change the cam to hit your 600WHP goal easily. OEM hardware everywhere (except heads studs) has been proven to run well into the 1000 crank HP range. (you need to do this to run ARP rodbolts properly). ARP fastners are a total waste of money and you can't re-size the OEM rods anyway. You don't need to do a damn thing to the motor. Honestly a set of $60 Ebay studs, decent ML gaskets (ls1/ls9) and som $60 valve springs are all you need for your power goals. They also came with the great 243 heads and a cam very similar to the LS6. They were among the first motors to get them. I'm pretty darn sure the 元3's came with the larger rods and floating pistons already.

right turbo for 5.3 ls

They are the "the foundation of ANY big power setup is set of good flowing heads" and other is "don't bother porting the heads just let the boost do the work".īottomline: Are ported stock 799/243 heads or even aftermarket TFS's or AFR's worth the expense on such a build or shall just forget about it apply the money elsewhere and turn up the boost an extra 1 or 2 psi? Or can you guys here provide me a middle ground solution between those two schools of thought? There are two schools of thought regarding making big power on turbo setups especially on budget builds. My power goal is 600 to 700 RWHP in a daily driven 1995 Chevy Caprice 9C1. I want to give it a good rebuilding with a machined crank, upgrade to good stock Gen IV rods like out of a LS3/L92, fresh bearings and rings, fully balanced rotating assembly and ARP fasteners everywhere. What I mean by "semi-budget" is that I willing to buy a high mile junk yard 5.3 liter aluminum block LSx like a 元3 but instead of just plopping it into my car with just a change of ARP head bolts and valvesprings.











Right turbo for 5.3 ls